Your Ultimate Guide to Perms

Forget everything you thought you knew about perms – these aren’t your grandmother’s curls anymore! The modern perm has undergone a big transformation, offering versatile, natural-looking waves and curls. Whether you’re curious about trying a perm for the first time or looking to update your curls, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know. From understanding the process to choosing the right style and maintaining your new look, we’ll explain all of the options available to you! 

What is a Perm?

A perm, short for “permanent wave,” is a chemical treatment that alters the hair’s structure to create lasting curls or waves. The process uses solutions to break and reform the hair’s bonds, resulting in a new, curly texture that can last for months.

Perms gained massive popularity in the 1980s with the big, voluminous hair trend. Today’s perms have evolved significantly, offering more natural-looking and diverse curl patterns. Modern techniques allow for everything from beachy waves to tight spirals, moving away from the uniform, frizzy look associated with vintage perms.

Different Types of Perms

The world of perms has expanded far beyond the one-size-fits-all approach. Today, there’s a perm style to suit every hair type, length, and desired look. This includes subtle waves and dramatic spirals. The variety of perm techniques available allows for customised results to suit your preference.

 

Hair Type / Length	Types of Perms
Long Hair	Spiral perm, Beach wave perm, Body wave perm + Pin curl perm
Short Hair	Stack perm, Spot perm, Root perm + Volumising perm
Fine Hair	Body wave perm, Digital perm + Acid perm
Thick Hair	Thio-free perm, Ceramic perm + Multi-textured perm
Straight Hair	Classic perm, Digital perm + Partial perm
Curly Hair	Relaxing perm, Straightening perm + Texturising perm

 

Cold wave perm

This classic technique uses chemicals at room temperature to break and reform hair bonds, creating curls suitable for various hair types. The process involves applying a perm solution to hair wrapped around rods, followed by a neutraliser to set the curls. It typically takes 2-3 hours and can last 3-6 months. Cold wave perms are versatile but can be harsh on already damaged hair, so proper conditioning is crucial.

 Hot perms or digital perm

Hot perms utilise both heat and chemicals for long-lasting, natural-looking waves. The hair is first treated with a chemical solution, then wrapped around special rods that are heated electronically. This method allows for softer, more defined curls that tend to drop into natural-looking waves when dry. The process takes about 3-4 hours but can last up to 6-8 months with proper care. It’s particularly effective for those with straight, resistant hair.

 Spiral perm

Creates tight, corkscrew curls using long vertical rods. The hair is wound around the rods from scalp to tip, creating a spiral pattern. This style usually takes 2-3 hours to complete and can last 4-6 months. Spiral perms work best on longer hair and create a dramatic, voluminous look. They require more maintenance than looser perms to prevent frizz and maintain definition.

 Body wave perm

Adds volume and soft, loose waves to hair, creating a natural, fuller look. This technique uses larger rods to create a gentler curl pattern. The process typically takes 2-3 hours and results can last 3-5 months. Body wave perms are ideal for those wanting movement and volume without tight curls. They work well on various hair lengths and are lower maintenance than tighter curl patterns.

 Beach wave perm

Produces relaxed, tousled waves for a carefree, just-off-the-beach look. This style uses a combination of different sized rods and a gentler perm solution to create natural-looking, varied waves. It usually takes 2-3 hours to achieve and can last 3-4 months. Beach wave perms are perfect for those wanting a low-maintenance, effortless style.

 Volumising perm

Focuses on adding lift and volume to flat hair, particularly beneficial for fine hair types. This technique concentrates on creating lift at the roots and subtle waves through the lengths. The process takes about 2 hours and results can last 2-4 months. It’s an excellent option for those wanting to add body to their hair without dramatic curls.

Root perm

Targets only the roots for added volume at the crown, ideal for those wanting lift without full curls. The perm solution is applied only to the first few inches of hair from the scalp. This quick process takes about 1-2 hours and lasts 2-3 months. Root perms are great for refreshing volume between full perms or for those who want lift but prefer to keep their lengths straight.

 Spot perm

Spot perms are for specific areas of hair for targeted curls, allowing for customised styles. This technique can be used to add curl to flat areas, create face-framing tendrils, or add texture to specific sections. The duration varies based on the areas treated but typically takes 1-2 hours and lasts 3-4 months. Spot perms offer versatility and can be used to enhance natural curl patterns or create unique styles.

 Pin curl perm

Creates vintage-style curls using pin curls instead of rods, resulting in a classic, retro look. Hair is twisted into small circles and pinned flat to the head before applying the perm solution. This technique takes 2-3 hours and can last 3-5 months. Pin curl perms create soft, romantic curls and are ideal for achieving a 1920s-1950s inspired look.

 Multi-textured perm

Combines different-sized rods for varied curl patterns, creating a more natural, diverse look. This detailed process takes 3-4 hours and results can last 4-6 months. By using a mix of rod sizes, the stylist can create a more natural-looking curl pattern that mimics naturally curly hair. This technique works well for those wanting a more dynamic, less uniform curl pattern.

 Stack perm

Uses different-sized rods to create volume in short, layered hair, particularly effective for adding body to fine hair. Larger rods are used at the bottom layers, with smaller rods on top to ‘stack’ the curls. The process takes about 2 hours and lasts 3-4 months. Stack perms are excellent for creating the illusion of thicker, fuller hair on shorter styles.

 Straight perm

Chemically relaxes curly or wavy hair for a straighter look. This treatment involves applying a straightening solution to break the hair’s bonds, then heat-sealing the hair straight. It takes 2-3 hours and can last 4-6 months, depending on hair type and growth rate. Straight perms require careful aftercare to maintain hair health and can be combined with other treatments for added shine or smoothness.

 Partial perm

Applies perm solution to select sections of hair for a natural effect, ideal for those wanting subtle curls or waves. This process takes 1-2 hours and results typically last 3-4 months. Partial perms can be used to enhance natural texture, add volume to specific areas, or create a more subtle permed look. They’re a great option for those new to perms or wanting to maintain some of their natural hair texture.

Who Should Consider a Perm?

Perms can work well for those with straight to slightly wavy hair looking for added texture and volume. They’re ideal for individuals with healthy hair, as the chemical process can be harsh on already damaged or overly processed strands. Fine hair may benefit from certain types of perms for added body, however this requires careful treatment.

Consider your lifestyle when deciding on a perm. While modern perms are lower maintenance nowadays than they used to be, they still require specific care routines and products. If you’re looking for a wash-and-go style that adds texture, a perm could be a good fit.

Always consult with a professional stylist before getting a perm. They can assess your hair’s health, discuss your desired outcome, and recommend the best perm type for your hair texture and lifestyle. This consultation is crucial to ensure you achieve the look you want while maintaining your hair’s health.

The Perm Process

The perm process involves several crucial steps. Each stage requires skill and precision to ensure the best results. Here’s a breakdown of what you can expect during your perm appointment:

1. Washing and Preparing the Hair

The process begins with a thorough wash to remove any dirt, oils or product buildup, ensuring that the perm solution can penetrate the hair properly and evenly.

2. Wrapping Hair on Rods

The stylist sections the hair and wraps it around rods of various sizes, depending on the desired curl pattern.

3. Applying the Perm Solution 

A chemical solution is applied to break down the hair’s protein bonds, allowing it to relax and reshape around the rods.

4. Neutralising 

After processing, a neutraliser is applied to stop the chemical reaction and set the new curl pattern.

5. Final Styling

The rods are removed, and the hair is styled to showcase the new curls, often with minimal product to maintain the natural look.

Aftercare Tips for Permed Hair

Proper aftercare is crucial for maintaining the health and longevity of your freshly permed hair. By following these guidelines, you can keep your curls bouncy and defined for months.

Immediate Aftercare

• Wait 48 hours before washing your hair
• Avoid touching or styling your hair excessively
• Sleep on a silk pillowcase to reduce frizz
• Don’t tie your hair up or use clips for the first few days

Long-Term Maintenance

• Use curl-specific shampoos and conditioners
• Apply a leave-in conditioner to keep curls moisturised
• Avoid heat styling tools when possible
• Refresh curls with a curl-enhancing spray between washes

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Over-washing, which can dry out and loosen curls
• Using regular brushes instead of wide-toothed combs
• Skipping deep conditioning treatments
• Colouring hair too soon after perming

Pros and Cons of Getting a Perm

Before deciding to get a perm, it’s important to weigh up the advantages and potential drawbacks in order for you to make an informed decision about whether it’s right for you.

Pros of Getting a Perm

1. Low-maintenance styling
2. Added volume and texture
3. Versatility: Various perm types offer different looks and styles
4. Long-lasting results

Cons of Getting a Perm

1. Potential damage: The chemical process can weaken hair if not done properly
2. Commitment: You’re stuck with the style until it grows out or is cut off
3. Maintenance costs: Requires specific products and regular touch-ups
4. Limited styling options: Heat styling and certain products should be avoided

Book Your Hair Appointment Now

Fancy trying out a modern perm? Our expert stylists at RUSH are here to help you achieve the perfect curls or waves for your preferred style. Whether you’re looking for beachy waves or voluminous curls, we’ve got you covered. Book your perm consultation at RUSH today!